Re-entry shock as we leave the wilderness for the real world
June 24th – Dire forecasts still but peeking
through our “window” shows low chop in the Strait. Decided to scoot around
the corner into protected country while we can. Picked Claydon Bay in more
pretty country, shared with several other boats but still very quiet.
Walked around the old lumbering wharf which nature is reclaiming. The
second-growth forest behind looks pretty mature.
Raining steady in little
wind while the weather service still predicts that a front will be moving
through “real soon now” as we say in software development. It has been a
challenge the whole trip to figure out how to deal with these
worst-case-timing-worst-case-location forecasts covering large areas, which
take on a “crying wolf” aspect requiring a lot of reading between the
lines. Getting the NavFax to work reliably would be a help -- then I could
see where the front really is, when it really starts to move and thus when
the wind warnings might actually apply where. Meanwhile like everyone else
I listen to the actual reports, watch the barometer trends, look out the
window to see how fast the clouds are moving, make an educated guess – and
finally go have a cautious look with fallbacks in case we happen to enter
that worst-case spot.
 June 25th – Took a quick peek at Kingcome
Inlet and Shawl Bay; both look worth a visit another year. Sightseeing at
Deep Sea Bluff and Lacy Falls in Tribune.
Got a warm welcome from hosts Max, Anca, Russell and Maricke at Kwatsi Cove. Met Bob and Marilynn Hale and
thanked them for their excellent Waggoner Guide! Spent a pleasant day in
spite of the rain chatting with folks from the other boats (it’s a fair
sample of cruisers we have seen: 3 GB, 1 Tolly, 1 OA, 2 sail, all ranging 32
to 42 feet). Popcorn had a great
 time running the dock with Maricke, as
charming a young lady as Waggoner suggests, plus meeting all the other
people. Great stop: not fancy or complete services yet but a happy place.
Lovely waterfall “music” to boot.
June 26th – the front never broke through
the ridge
and is apparently dissipating instead; been raining steady and heavy all
night into this morning though dead calm. Got to talking with Max and found he is a careful
observer of animal behavior and intelligence. Wonderful stories about the
bears, cougars and ravens they live with year-round. Jan played “Grandma”
to Maricke and Russell, passing along craft supplies and cookies.
Then off
to Lagoon Cove in thin fog (3 mile visibility) and rain, no wind. Had a
great time at the Happy Hour meeting interesting folks. One of the fellows
has the same sort of “quilting” problems with Visual Studio that I see on Furuno/C-Map, down to one of the same map inset examples I found. Curious
since I assume they use different data bases and presumably code. Perhaps
someone designed a faulty algorithm years ago that everyone is using? Still
raining pretty heavily here at 8 pm is spite of the “dissipating front” –
should be better once we get completely behind the Vancouver Island rain
shadow in the next day or two.
 June 27th – weather better today! Off to
fuel dock at 7:00 am sharp for a meeting with the slack tides at Whirlpool
and Greene Point rapids, a half-hour each way was still placid. Johnstone
Strait was working itself up to a 2 foot chop for the day but we got out
before it did so. Tied up at Cordero Lodge by 1:00 for a lazy afternoon.
Dinner at the Lodge lived up to all the advanced billing, so this is another
must stop for future trips. Still early season so the guests are cruisers
not fisherman. We have noticed our first mosquitoes the last few days but
Jungle Juice keeps them easily at bay.
June 28th – away promptly at 6 am for a 7:28
slack at Dent and Yuculta Rapids, which Jan piloted us through. Calm
Channel lived up to its name, then into Sutil where things started to get
lively. The weatherman’s gale warnings have finally come true! This front
is moving across us, whipping up 3 (and a few 4) foot waves for the last few
miles as we crossed the end result of the whole Strait of Georgia fetch.
Had to “tacK’ a bit south from Viner Point to quarter the waves over to Rebecca Spit, then
north inshore with seas aft until turning the corner into Drew Harbour.
Chose this place for its long sandy beach and endless driftwood for both
lady’s pleasure, not for riding out a SE blow, but it should do for all.
Measured 12 knots gusting 25 in the harbour at noon, up to gusts 35 later. Bedoeling is nervously swinging in a 100’ wide arc around her chain,
bouncing in the small wind waves. Jan is on a cooking binge (goodies
coming!), while I watch the GPS and radar for signs of anchor dragging and
listen for the wind to ease. Popcorn is miffed because she isn’t ashore
even though the engines are stopped. Have to wait until this blows out
before trying to row an inflatable around.
 June 29th – anchor held fine! Winds dropped
around midnight so took Popcorn ashore in the morning first thing. Calm and
clear early became windy and showery later. Still got to enjoy the lovely
beaches. Made a dinghy run to the Heriot Bay market for some groceries
(they provided a lift back to the dock too) and checked out the Heriot Bay
Pub for future reference. Got splashed a bit on the dinghy ride back as the
rising wind had whipped up a 1 foot chop in the anchorage again.
 June 30th
– decided Rebecca Spit was about as good a beach as we were going to find so
settled in for the day, walked ashore and let Popcorn play with some new dog
friends. She found something thoroughly disgusting to roll in so got a
little bath coming aboard – she wasn’t happy but we like her better this
way. Nice relaxing day.
Watched new arrivals struggle with anchoring here.
The bottom is demanding of both technique and equipment if you hit the wrong
spot. Douglass says it’s a hard bottom and we saw a lot of kelp fouling come
up. Some folks took several tries to get a good set, and one needed to
switch anchors. Very glad ours took the first bite in the wind two
nights ago.
I had settled on the beach to read about Ben Franklin
the First American (great book by the way), moving my chair and the dinghy
up the beach as the tide kept rising. Went for a short walk and got to
yakking with some foks. By the time I got back Ben was 3 times bigger,
full of salt water, which never did dry out again. Bought another copy
to finish it.
July 1st – cruised down to Schooner Cove for
the night, which wins the “best facilities” award for this particular trip
hands-down: nice docks, pool, spa, showers, exercise room. The pub was
closed (temporarily everyone hopes?) but the restaurant was open.
July 2nd – off right on time to meet slack
water at Gabriola Pass, and a fleet of sailboats
motoring through with us. Delightful cruise on the flybridge past old
haunts like Connover Cove, and into quiet charming Ganges – oops, what a
difference 8 weeks makes – make that bustling charming Ganges. Lots
of boats of all kinds, cars, people, dogs, bikes. Or maybe we just got out
of touch with civilization? Or both? The Ganges Marina has also changed
with the new floating store/office building, new showers, internet access,
dock repairs, and more apparently coming. We did get in without a
reservation (say what?) but clearly shouldn’t count on it now that the
season is underway. Celebrated the end of our trip as it began with a
superb dinner at House Piccolo.
July 3rd – a mild trough is passing so skies
are mixed and the wind is south 10-15 mph for our run home today. Lots of
sailors out enjoying the wind. In fact, lots of everyone is out on a week
including both Canada Day and the Fourth long weekends. I’m having big trouble getting
re-adjusted to crowds. Roche Harbor customs clearance went smoothly and
quickly considering the volume they were handling.
Flybridge weather until
we got into San Juan Channel where the cold wind against current had whipped
up a steep 2-3 foot chop. This raised concerns about crossing Rosario
Strait and Bellingham Bay later, so we ducked behind Crane Island for a few
minutes of re-planning. Decided to continue with some new fallbacks in case
we got stopped. Turned out we had minor 1-2’ chop from there on (actually
the worst waves of the day were mostly from inconsiderate boaters; with this
many people out there were bound to be some). We tied up in our Sqaulicum
Harbor berth at 6:17 pm to end a fabulous trip!
July 4th – watched fireworks from our nearly
front-row seat on the flybridge, a stunning welcome home.
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