Ketchikan: Artwork, re-supply, engine work and a few days of city living -- that turned into a week

May 24^th – Off to Ketchikan!  Saw a couple eagles and a black bear leaving Foggy Bay.  More chop today so the decision to cross Dixon last night was a winner.  Tongass Narrows are busy; haven’t seen this many boats in motion since leaving Newcastle.  Docked in Thomas Basin right next to the cruise ships, easy walk to everything.  Now for a few days of civilization, Alaska style, before heading back to the wilderness.  Talked to our home diesel expert and got his opinion on the overheating plus Cummins recommendation on a mechanic for tomorrow.  Prowled the town for restaurants (first priority of course) and did not have too much luck.  Unlike Skagway and other tourist spots, there does not seem to be that one really good restaurant here where the locals eat dinners.  Ended up in Steamers which was decent food and great view but pricey.

May 25^th – Breakfast at the New York Café then off to deal with the engine.  Tried the home mechanic’s suggestion: opened up the heat exchanger and found it clean as a whistle.  Called the Cummins recommendation and he was not excited about working the problem, tho’ also suggested parts of the raw water loop as part of the problem.  Went back to work the problem and discovered the next two pieces to check were outside and unreachable for me – too many years at the computer. 

Not happy with the sound of the first mechanic so asked the helpful Ketchikan Yacht Club for a recommendation and called Jim’s Diesel instead.  Also overloaded (nothing like calling Saturday on Memorial Day and salmon derby weekend) but he was willing to come have a look since it was likely to either be a plugged gearbox cooler or damaged impeller, both in the same short run of pipe for a quick job.  Several hours later it was fixed.  After taking all of the raw water loop apart he got down to the very unlikely item which it turned out to be.  The thermostat had broken the support for the opening mechanism in a way that worked a little but not much, and a tiny bit less after every opening.  Delighted with Jim – he did not give up and put me in some queue for next week!  I got an in-depth course in diesel cooling systems watching and passing tools, but ended very sore and stiff after standing all day. Jan and Popcorn sat patiently on the dock meeting everyone in the harbor including another puppy to play with.  Celebrated with dinner at the NY Café, better food at 2/3 the price of last night but unfortunately dinners Friday/Saturday only.

May 26^th – Tested the repair with a run up the Narrows and it seems fine (kn-kn).  Then went for a little walk for shopping on the North side of the tunnel which turned into several hours and 7 miles.  Helped work out the stiffness and got most of the items on the list.  This town has two faces, the one for those who live here (to which those of us who stay overnight are honorary members) and the cruise ship face.  Every morning 2000-10000 people offload from huge ships that dwarf the town, go to the tourist stores and excitements provided, and disappear mid afternoon.  At which point the tourist places close and the locals come out.  The other divide is geographic at the tunnel north and the Creek bridge south which the big ship people generally don’t cross.  Strong love-hate relationship with those ships, tough choices for town income as timber, mining and fishing get cut back.

May 27^th – Stayed an extra day since the first one didn’t count given the diesel repair.  Visiting shops, taking walks, generally enjoying Ketchikan today.  Found the Parnassus bookstore upstairs on the Creek Street boardwalk with its sophisticated eclectic book to restock the boat library.  A few doors down we stopped by the Alaska Eagle Art Gallery to meet the artist, Marvin Oliver, and ended up with a print and some other items.  He lives in Wallingford in Seattle (not far from our offices), has taught at UW for many years, sells through this gallery here in Ketchikan.  He grew up in Silicon Valley CA (near where we lived for many years) but moved to Seattle to be closer to his family on the Olympic Peninsula.  He is from the branch of native artists taking traditional designs into new media and colors, including some public art in Seattle we need to track down.  Has some 8” diameter cast glass masks with a diachronic backing that are very impressive.  Delightful discussion with a creative individual.  Dinner at Annabelle’s (recommended by Marvin and others), a nice spot though at tourist prices.  Very generous portions makes it ideal to split things or nosh off the bar menu.

May 28^th – we’re ready, the boat’s ready, the weather ain’t.  A low has settled into the Gulf of Alaska with winds of 20-30 knots plus gusts in the straits outside.  Discovered that Ketchikan puts Seattle to shame when it comes to raining, not surprising when the total here is well over 1 foot of rain per month.  Did get out to the Saxman Totem Park to watch and chat with Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshain artists.  Making good use of the buses.  Dinner at the Good Fortune Chinese at the end of Creek Street was a tasty change.

May 29^th – another waiting day.  Went to the excellent Visitors Center and Tongass Historical museums.  Dinner at the Ocean View Restaurant, a Mexican-Greek-Italian-whatever place a short bus ride north, good restaurant with fair prices where the locals eat.

May 30^th – weather beginning to improve slowly but sounds marginal with another trough tonight.  In port again.  Dinner aboard cleaning up leftovers.

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