Petersberg: Prosperous, no-frills, where the eagles flock downtown

May 31^st – still borderline reports at Ketchikan but the actuals are better than the area forcasts the direction we are heading; worth a look-see.  Had hoped to visit totems at Kasaan today and make some progress northward, but the wind waves in Clarence Strait were 3-4 foot with a few at 6 foot, from forward port quarter to beam to aft quarter as we crossed, which made for a rough hour and a half.  Old Kassan did not have anything left.  The docks at new Kasaan Village, even though well up the bay, are still subject to the residual waves in the pouring rain so decided not to stop.  Headed to Kina Cove to hole up for the night, a pretty spot looking east but logged over looking west, with small jelly fish swimming around.  A rough day without much net progress.  Reminded how smooth the trip has been since Queen Charlotte Sound; while crossing Clarence the boat rolled enough to open a couple cupboards and toss stuff on the floor.  No harm, just noisy.

June 1^st – left Kina Cove to see how far north we could get.  Weather reports improved but hard to tell with reporting stations so far apart and a few Southeast Alaska broad area forecasts to cover such complicated terrain.  Turned out to be a pretty good day, mostly 1 foot chop with an occasional patch of 2 foot following seas, all easy going.  Clarence Strait short on wildlife until close to Sumner Strait.  Ended up running engines for 11:50 all the way to Petersberg.  Had the first glimpse of sunshine patches on hills in a week, ending in high broken clouds and one whale spouting in the distance. 

Wrangell Narrows with its 63 numbered markers was a fun challenge to end my day.  The problem was not big boat traffic as expected (none met) but sport fisherman who believe the best spots are in the middle of the dredged channel, and dart about unpredictably to find a better spot.

Petersberg is in a magnificent setting with snow capped mountains, a serious fishing town of Norwegians (the pizza man had heard “Ballard-North” before) for both sport and commercial with none of the big cruise ship tourist influence. 

Dock facilities exemplify Peteresberg's practicality – we are no longer in Yuppiedom Dorothy!  No bollards, Flemish coils or hose bibs but it all works.

June 2^nd – taking a rest and walk around town day.  Most everything closes here on Sunday like a real town.  Nice looking houses; it appears possible to prosper doing fishing and forestry. 

Bald eagles and ravens fly around the harbor like gulls, and they roost on anything including streetlights and mastheads.  Ravens look like big crows, but they have a rich vocabulary of sounds including imitations.  You hear a bird call or odd sound, and turn around to find it is a Raven.  No wonder they are the trickster in the NW stories. 

Walked out to see the petroglyphs and got a ride partway back from the Hammer & Wikan grocery (free harbor delivery means you plus your groceries; nice folks).  Dinner at Northern Lights – “American” food done well and reasonable -- fortunate since it’s the only full restaurant we found in walking distance.  All in all, a delightful town we wish we had a more time for.

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