Prince Rupert: a few days of friendly civilization

June 15^th – off to cross Dixon this morning.  Little or no wind waves today, but there was a SW swell running that was fairly long in Dixon itself, thus not a problem.  However between Foggy Point and Tree Point it steepened up, perhaps due to running against the current, and was a little uncomfortable for the first hour.  The rest of the way into Prince Rupert was flat water. 

Venn Passage was a challenge because the local boats plow quickly through knowing the way, while the first-timer is trying to watch charts and GPS and sounder and boats as the marks seem to zip by.  The chartplotter also decided to exhibit its “quilting” algorithm problem right in the middle which didn’t help!  Paper charts were ready as backup, but a quick mental gear shift was needed to use charts and ranges as the sole navigation.  Venn is still the best way in from the north, worth the trouble. 

Headed into Cow Bay and the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club docks (note that they are using Channel 73, not 72 as the book says, and our AT&T cell phones appeared to roam but actually gave busy signals always).  Jim and his team at PRRYC are very helpful and will try to fit you in, but it may be a very tight fit both on approach and in the slip (I took 2 tries lining up, not unusual) plus there is often a current running here.  All of this makes boat handling as much ‘fun’ to do and as instructive to watch as at the Ballard Locks.  Bring your sense of humor and flexibility! 

Dinner was at the excellent Cow Bay Café, a creative eclectic menu by an enthusiastic chef, well attended by both locals and visitors so reservations highly recommended.

June 16^th – spending a few days in civilization:  shore power, endless showers, docks for dog duty, friendly dogs and people to meet, restaurants, etc.  Cow Bay is just a few blocks from downtown, very convenient.  It has an active charter and personal fishing fleet as well as visiting cruisers, so constant activity.  Friendly too.  Had to move today since PRRYC uses hot-berthing, but fortunately it was from one side of the slip to the other, easily done with dock lines and willing helping hands.  Jan spent the whole afternoon laundering just about every piece of cloth we had.  Breakfast at the Crest Motel, a Marriott-like dining room with a superb view of the harbor and city; I ate there all but one morning.  Dinner at Smilie’s, a straightforward seafood restaurant at the head of the docks (we thought a bit overrated in the guidebooks).

June 17^th – ran errands today for re-supply, but mostly relaxed.  Needed a vacation from the vacation, I think.  Dinner at Lee and Ann’s Vietnamese, well done oriental food in what looks like a lunchroom downtown.  Locals who had been complaining about the weird sunny weather forcing them to water gardens have been rewarded with normal Rupert Rain. 

This is a healthy town with a diverse economy, a regional commercial, government and transportation center, toying with the cruise ship trade.  One local shop owner expressed reservations about those ships – for all the right reasons in our view – but maybe if they can stick with the small cruise ships that cater to an 'eco-tourist' crowd it will work well by incrementing fish charter, kayak, day tour, shops and other businesses already in place.

June 18^th – extended another day in Prince Rupert.  Went to the Tshimshian (pronounced SHIM-shan) Museum, a beautiful small exhibit with both historical and contemporary First Nation pieces.  Didn’t take any of the museum’s outside tours but wish we had – something for next time.  Watch out though; their gift shop has some lovely tempting art works.  Dinner at Breaker’s Pub, also at the head of the dock, serving a wide variety of tasty pub food.

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