Fiordland diversion on the way to Queen Charlotte Sound, while the weather pulls false alarms

June 19^th – bid a reluctant farewell to Prince Rupert and the Yacht Club folks.  Left about 1:30 under a nearly calm overcast, timed as a compromise between daylight and tidal currents. 

Passed a lot of wood – even whole trees – washed down from recent flooding in the Skeena, and trucked down Grenville to Lowe Inlet.  Not much traffic yet.  One BC ferry in the narrows whose wake doesn't look like much in the picture but becomes significant when reflected between the steep rock walls.  Saw a number of fishing boats heading home and no cruisers. 

Ah-ha, found them all in Lowe Inlet where 11 boats spent the night anchored all around the edges.  Quite a change from our northbound visit though still a very lovely spot.  My anchoring method relies on the radar to measure distance to shore and other boats precisely.  Here the radar's auto-gain optimized for the strong shore and reflector returns; unfortunately this made the closest boat to us, a large powerboat with no reflector, virtually invisible and tricky to space.  One couple brought along a ship's cat who likes to kayak.

   ]June 20^th – dawned sunny today in Lowe.  Catching up on these notes early but Popcorn says its time to stop for shore duty.  The SE tidal flat makes a great spot for her to run, and even though used by bears it has lots of open space before the tree line.  Spent most of the day on the flybridge in the sunshine enjoying the scenery.  The exception was Graham Reach which whipped up a SE chop that got to a couple feet for a few miles.  Calmed instantly entering Hiekish Narrows which just had a few mild tide rips, then into placid Windy Bay. 

Must be back off the beaten track:  little traffic, mostly commercial fishing off to or from some opening, and we had the night to ourselves in a little jewel of an anchorage.

June 21^st – calm and sunny turned overcast mid-day with a little South wind and chop in Mathiesan Channel, and clearing again for a lovely sunset at Oliver Cove.  Fiordland was almost all ours alone except for one crabber and two Nordic Tugs at Kynoch.  Tall mountains, glacier carver domes and valleys dropping sheer into the water, many water falls along the way, with Kynoch Falls as the crown jewel.  Wish there were more anchorages here but worth a return visit in any case!  Even though Oliver Cove is back on the beaten path we only have to share it with a cruiser headed north and four rafted commercial fisherman.  Popcorn re-discovered she can swim today.

June 22^nd – short day in grey but smooth conditions, stopping at Shearwater for diesel, water, groceries and phone.  This payphone is the last until across Queen Charlotte Sound to coordinate return logistics (sigh).  Store's produce not so good this time; their last shipment was pretty well picked over.  Caught the Shearwater eagle on its perch this time; fun to see a 6’ wingspan bird flying these harbors. 

Fancy Cove is nice for one or two boats, a bit tight on swinging room but a lovely setting.  Barbequed salmon steaks (a gift from PRRYC) – maybe we should learn how to fish?  Strategizing to cross Queen Charlotte Sound, either straight-thru tomorrow or stay a night or two in Klaqaeuk.  The weather man seems to be struggling with a stalled front that has been “coming thru tonight” for two days now, so prepared to play it by the actuals.

June 23^rd –  ran down to our go-no-go decision point passing Addenbroke Island to find things looking good since the front remains stalled.  Very low swells coming through Hakai Pass too.  Had a decent crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound, splashing into 3-4 foot combined swell and chop, both from the South, between Cape Calvert and Egg Island, which gradually dropped to a low following swell down to the Southgate Group.  A huge fast cruise ship passed us from behind at Egg Island, thankful again for our own radar reflector.  Only about a half hour of hand steering around Cape Caution, otherwise the autopilot handled the details nicely all day.  All things considered a good passage.  Relief to have this one behind us; most of the people we talked to had a 'Queen Charlotte story' to tell. 

Tucked into Blunden Harbor with a few other boats after a long day, lots of room.  Found a big beach with squirting clams and an old stone fish weir for Popcorn’s shore duty.  This beach connects out to Queen Charlotte Strait so you can easily walk over for a look at the outside weather.

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